There is an unusual structure in the Bavarian National Forest south of Munich, close to the Czech Republic border. It’s called das Baum-Ei (the tree-egg, in German), an architectural delight that summons hikers, wanderers and architects from around the world.
That part of the forest is almost only hemlock trees, which are thinned frequently for the health of the forest. About fifteen years ago, foresters found a novel use for all harvested timber. They milled it into planks and studs and built a thirty-five-foot elevated trail for almost a mile through the forest, ending in a huge wooden egg that stretches 145 feet toward the sky. In precise German fashion, the path is called a “Baumwipfelphad” or Tree/treetop/path.
Still ardent hikers then, Nancy and I stayed for a week in a village near Das Ei, intending to explore the forest. In a grassy square in the village, there were three posts holding wooden arrows pointing in all directions. On each arrow was written the name of the trail and its length in kilometers. A good thing was that we still thought in miles, so our kilometer hikes seemed pleasantly short.
The Baum-Ei was too far away to walk, so we took a bus to a small log building amid a hemlock forest. A forester provided a map and pointed us toward steps leading to the treetop path. The pungent scent of hemlock, woody, slightly sweet with a hint of spice, enveloped us, refreshed us. We looked down to the tops of the trees, where spring growth showed bright green against the darker needles, a beautiful puzzle.
Too soon, we arrived at the Ei, at the edge of the forest, with farmland and meadows in the distance. The path continued inside the wooden egg, winding gently upward in a gradual slope until we reached the top. The view was spectacular from any side. Hemlock forest stretched toward distant mountains on one side, and farmland, red-roofed buildings, and tiny villages dotted the bucolic landscape under marshmallow clouds. That justified our trip.
The weather held for the rest of our visit, and we picked a trail at random daily from the arrows in the village square. That forest trail was not as well kept as in the hemlock forest, with washouts here and there, but still a pleasant walk. After about five miles, we came to a meadow and a small Gasthaus that featured another German marvel. Surrounded by people at wooden tables on a terrace outside the building was a boulder the size of a school bus. Squarely in its middle, about five feet from the ground, protruded a white handle – a beer tap.
A young woman handed us traditional beer steins and pointed to the white handle. Ice-cold delicious beer poured forth. Just the thing to make two hikers remember how thirsty they had been. I searched in vain for pipes or other external connections, but none were to be found. That beer boulder remained a mystery for the rest of our trip.
The thing was, every time we decided on a new path arrow to follow, it ended up bending toward that same Gasthaus with the boulder. The beer boulder.
Sometimes, unrelated and unexpected experiences from a trip are locked into your memory. Like Das Ei and the beer boulder. It was a glorious trip.